Saturday, August 15, 2009

Reader Questions

I got a few questions on some of my latest posts. I'm going to take this oppurtunity to answer them. First up:

Revuk Writes:

Is there a particular manufacturer for the airbrush that folks would recommend?

I personally use a a Badger Anthem 155. I choose this one because it was rated as easy to use and easy to clean. So far I've been extremely happy with it.

My buddy Colin picked up a Paasche VL series. He just got it so he has no experience to report yet. Though he did say it had good reviews on wherever he was looking.

Now, on to some brushes some authors have used in books I've read. First up, in Imperial Armor Masterclass, the authors use a Harder and Steenbeck/Hansa airbrush. From what I've been able to tell, its of German manufacture and hard to get in the states.

On the other hand, Brett Green (an Aussie), who writes for Osprey (and is prolific), uses a Testors Aztek. Incendentally, he edits an online magazine called Hyperscale and has created a ton of youtube videos on the subject of scale models as well. All useful stuff. You really get to see the airbrush in action. The azteks are a bit pricey, but seem worth it.

I've also heard a lot of good things about Iwata Airbrushes as well.

Ultimately, I can't give you too much advice for a first purchase. I'm still pretty new at this myself. In any case, an informed consumer is a good consumer. I'd also recommend hitting the wide open internet and seeing what kind of reviews you can dig up.

Lastly, I leave you with this Brushthralls article. It helped me out a lot when I was looking at an airbrush. Heed the advice within.

next up...
Brent Writes:

Great work. I also love the servitor-skin shade. Care to share? :)

Take care - Brent

Sure thing Brent. Sharing is caring. So is swearing.

The servitor skin tone is my favorite recipe for gross zombie flesh. It's a more realistic dead flesh color (much better than green) and when pulled off well, is really gross looking.

I got the recipe from No Quarter #14. If you want picture examples, you'll have to track down your own copy, but I'll provide some text based instructions.

All colors are from the Privateer Press P3 line.
  1. base flesh color: trollblood highlight+cryx bane highlight+rynn flesh. You're aiming for a sickly gray color.
  2. Initial bruising: thin down some Sanguine highlight and blend it around wherever flesh meets metal.
  3. Shading: mix a touch of Rynn Flesh into Thornwood green. Apply this in natural shadow areas and block out the muscles.
  4. Bruise shading: mix sanguine base with exile blue. Shade the bruises
  5. Deep shading: mix Umbral Umber and Coal black (actually a blue) and apply it sparingly to the undersides of the muscles. Note: For all of the shading steps, I find it extremely useful to thin the mixes for blending and layering purposes. It helps cut down on the tendency of the shading to take over if you can apply in thin layers.
  6. Highlighting: Mix thrall flesh with trollblood highlight. then add Menoth white highlight and rynn flesh to lighten. Keep adding more of the Menoth white and rynn flesh for subsequent highlughts. Agian, thinning helps with layers and blending.
  7. Lastly, create a glaze of Skorne red and exile blue. Aplly it to the bruises until you like the way it looks.
Anyway, I use this all the time despite the fact that it's a little involved.

That's all for reader comments for today. Thanks to Revuka nd Brent for thier questions.

1 comment:

  1. Colin aka analparsonsprojectAugust 27, 2009 at 4:25 PM

    So, still haven't busted out the Paasche airbrush yet, but gave the 1/8 horsepower compressor that it included a whirl with my old single action badger the other day and I have to say that the compressor is fucking sweet. it is actually relatively quiet and makes a huge difference in control vs my experience with cans o' air.

    also, in a moment of irony I just realized that I got the airbrush NIB from a guy in California....but the airbrush was made less than 1/2 mile from my house..... poop