Tuesday, October 28, 2008


Everything has arrived except one multi-melta I'm still trying to source.

Here's a group photo:

Most of this stuff will get used. Some of the paint wont as well as most of the Black Templar's chapter upgrade (not exactly what I'd hoped). The flat thing on the left is decal paper.

So, I begin building/converting the marines tonight!

Saturday, October 25, 2008

Pre-Heresy iron Warriors Project: Beginnings

I've gotten most of the materials I need to get started on this new project. However, I still await the arrival of my Forgeworld Red Scorpion parts. These are kinda key as I need them to complete 20 of my 31 marines. So, while I'm waiting, I've decided to post my, probably non-optimal, army list.

Note: I'm still playing around with some of the specifics of the equipment, so this list has changed a bit. Changes are highlighted in red.

Master of the Forge (120)
- storm bolter, power weapon

10-man Sternguard Squad (355)
- power fist, 5x combi-melta
- Drop Pod w/dethwind launcher

10-man Tactical Squad (220)
- Power Sword, flamer, multi-melta
- Rhino

10-man Tactical Squad (220)
- Power Sword, flamer, multi-melta
- Rhino

Heavy Support:
Whirlwind (85)

Total: 1000

I'm aiming at taking a fairly fluffly force with this list. I have the master of the forge and Whirlwind for obvious reasons. The tactical marines are in there as solid troops and an excuse to do some converting and the Sterngaurd are there because I love their models and rules.

the idea is to drop the Sternguard (with the Master of the Forge) into an enemy weakpoint while the rest of the marines move up under covering fire from the Whirlwind. I'll have to let you know how that goes for me once these guys actually see comabt.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Quick Hits - Vol. 2

More on the Dark Angels
I was rushed for time last post (I was at work a the tail end of my day) and missed a few things.
As I mentioned last time, the new Marine codex trumps the Dark Angels codex in almost every way.

Fore example: even though there are pieces of equipment in both books, they may have different and MUCH better rules in the new book. Add in the fact that the new marines have a ton more rules, options and cheaper costs than the Dark Angles and you have a codex that was already regarded as 'blah' get moved down to 'terribble' in the face of the new marines.

Then there's the new FAQ. A lot of people had high hopes that GW would give some love to the Dark Angles. GW had other ideas. We got this "most important rule' bullshit that says DA players can use the new toys, but ONLY if they get permission from the other player. these choices are not detailed and are not a given that I can even use them. This was the final nail in the coffin for me. My Dark Angels will gather dust until they get a new/decent codex.

The New Project: Prelude
So, I've gone on and on about the new codex and how the DA book is shit compared to it. After making the decision to not pursue a fully painted Dark Angels army, I decided to jump ship for the new toys.

Around the same time, I picked up the first three books in the Black Library Horus Heresy series. They're pretty good read - decently written pulp sci-fi dripping with tons of details what were always vague in the game-book stories.

Also around the same time, I found this thread on DakkaDakka: Iron warriors.
This guy's stuff is amazing - his use of found objects, his simple and effective color scheme and his fan-fucking-tastic comversions. Blew me away.

Additionaly, I found a series of pretty neat pre-heresy Death Guard articles on the Bell of Lost Souls.

So, all of these things inspired me to build a pre-heresy Iron Warrios army using the new codex. I also picked up a copy of the Horus Heresy art book to act as inspiration. Best art book I've owned and a steal at 30 bux (400+ pages!)

Iron Warriors and M:TG
Things have been a little tight with money lately, so I don't have the freedom to drop a ton of money on gaming projects. To that end, I had been trying to sell my Magic collection. its been years since I played, and I probably wont in the coming years. So why not turn those things into cash?

I first tried to get a quote on my collection from Star City Games. I wanted to sell it all at once and avoid the hassle and expense of ebay/paypal fees. No dice. I got strung along for almost three months and then got an insultingly low offer. I then turned to ebay and began selling singles. Kind of a bummer to break up the collection, but its actually fun to sell these things and its brought me a pretty good profit. Enough to buy everything I needed for my initial 1000 points.

Note: when selling MTG cards on ebay, list internationally. The shipping isn't that bad and the number of potential buyers is crazy. Tons of people want cards in English who live on non-english speaking countries and a ton of sellers don't ship internationally. Make money on those people's shortsightedness.

Iron Warriors Pre-prep
So, at this juncture I'm simply waiting for my parts to arrive. Everything is ordered and on its way (and I mean everything - forgeworld parts, a massive superherogameland order, paint, decal solution, decal paper - the works). In the meantime, I'm finishing up a few key pieces of terrain and working on a color scheme.

Citadel Metalic Paints.
Are awesome. Previously I had had a pretty have bias againt the GW paint. But a recent post on the new brush thralls forum gace high praise to the Metalics and were spot on about the problems I've had with Vallejo and P3. I gave 'em a shot and I'm hooked. Great coverage and great consistency.

Iron Warriors: the First 1000
For my entry into the realm of my crazy project (chock full of conversions and custom stuff) I decided on a fairly fluffy force led by a Master of the Forge. Two 10 man tactical squads in Rhino's make up the bulk, a 10 man squad of Sternguard in a drop pod give me some oomph and a Whirlwind gives me some fairly fluffy ordnance and troop killing ability.

Mos of this stuff arrives friday (hopefully) and once I get the forgeworld bits, we're in business.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Quick Hits - vol. 1

What the heck happened to the rest of the gaming board tutorial?
Sorry. I have eternal project ADD. Between working on my necromunda gang, Warhammer Online, making terrain and various other things (Wii), it got dropped. The boards are done and now a good section of terrain is as well.

Other Terrain
Been working on this off and on as well. Pretty heavily in August/early september, pretty lightly now. I have a lot of stuff done (including the new GW moon craters) and very little that I HAVE to get done to have a good selection.

GW Moonscape
Is pretty cool. Good, cheap ready made terrain is always a good time. the only downside was that I had to mount them on hardboard to deal with their relative flimsiness and hollowness. Overall, a great buy and very cool.

Not so much. Mostly been working on terrain and/or playing Warhammer online in my free time. I did work on some alternative marine color schemes and recipes, but nothing major or sustained.

Warhammer Online
Is awesome. Waaaghffle House is awesome. Best MMO I've played.

Imperial Amor vol 2
I got this some time ago. The IA books are amazing.

New Space marine Codex
Is sick. A totally great book (all info based on the pirated version I saw as well as the internet buzz). Great new units, adds much needed flexibility and "Snazz" to the marines. it also Gets rid of the stupid chapter traits system as well as beefs up a ton of equipment and adds a ton of new tweaks here an there. Unfortunately, it doesn't apply to the Dark Angels - taking them from mediocre to worthless in a 140 pages.

Dark Angels
I had been doing a lot of reading about these guys as a matter of research. Overall, the codex WAS pretty good, if not lackluster. I had decided that I would need to play either Deathwing or Ravenwing to make thins worthwhile and had been gearing up to incororate those things into my battle company force. Still, the Dark Angels wer underpowerd and under flexible.

I even research some tricky Deathwing builds that involved Inquisitors and multi-melta devastator squads. I had even gotten as far as ordering some forgeworld Deathwing shoulders. Then the new Marine codex came out. Literally everything in the new 'dex was better than anything in the DA codex - cheaper units, better rules, better equipment and better characters.

All off a sudden, the dark angels were shit.

A list:
- new codex marines had better chapter master options. Azreal is overpriced and underpowered.
- new dex can take bike units as troops by inclusion of a couple of character options. Both are more flexible (can join units) and one is cheaper.
-Almost everything is cheaper in the new dex.
-Key peices of terminator equipment are now better in the new dex.
-New landraiders can carry more guys and the new dex can have more of them... OH and the newer and better machine spirt.
-New dex vindicators have a better dozer blade and cost less.
-Drop pod assault better than Deathwing assault

So, all the things that I wanted to do with my Dark Angels were going to be better with a different codex. Better terminators, tactical squads, cheaper bikes and better vindicators.
So, I am abandoning my Dark Angels for a new super-cool project. More on this later.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Necromunda has been put on hiatus for the time being. Probably for a long time. What can I say? I got bored. The project was taking too long (with me being the only person working on it) and trying to build a gaming table AND 2+ gangs quickly took its toll. I got 6 members of a 9 man Goliath gang built. I may end up finishing these guys up sooner rather than later.

On the plus side, my bitz box is pretty well stocked.

lately I've been working on terrain. The Necromunda board is a great little thing because with 2 more sections, I have a regulation size Warhammer 40k table. This is good, because I finally lured one of my local buddies into the game.

For a few months now, my local buddies have been interested in the game. One because of his new-found interest in Dawn of War and the other because he just plain likes games and painting. I had loaned out the books to one friend (and his teenage son) in a thinly veiled attempt (actually it wasn't veiled at all) to entice them into the hobby. It only kinda worked. they sat on the books for a month and a half and were interested but not quite enough... yet.

I retrieved the books and passed them onto a different friend. Success! Ian is all about the Necrons and is ordering some in the near future. Which is awesome. I'll have a buddy to play with and a pressing reason to paint my Dark Angels up (finally).

We're starting at a 1000 point chunk. I have most of what I need. All I need to do is get a Ravenwing squad and I'll be ready to fight some robo-skeletons (at 1000 and 1500 points, wooo!).

The Near Future:
First, I need to finish the terrain for the gaming board. I'd say I'm about a third done. it's moving quickly enough. Next, I need to re-base my current tactical squad and, perhaps, re-dirty my Rhino. I want them to match my terrain - gonna use some Dragon Forge bases that rock my socks off. Then its on to my 2nd Tactical squad, and 2nd Rhino. At some point I need to paint Sammael and then buy a Ravenwing box and some more resin bases. Lots to do.

The Far Future.
Who knows, really?Tthe 500 point expansion to my DA is already bought and paid for: 3 vindicators and a landspeeder. Gonna need to paint those as well.

For 2000 points? Who knows. I could always add more Ravenwing and a couple interchangeable scout squads (Ian wants a Deathbringer - Snipers eat him alive... I'm told). Buuuut, I'm also super stoked about the possibilities of the Deathwing. I've got three super spiffy lists I could build that are, for the most part, built around a common core. I've even got a color scheme worked out.

However, I made the mistake of looking at the Forgeworld Nurgle/Death Guard minis. Yikes. I don't nornally go in for the rotting stuff. But then again, most people's ideas on what they look like include large fleshy tumors. Boo. The Forgeworld stuff is super amazing. Espeically the dreadnoughts. So, If I can get a decent price on my M:TG collection come september (fingers crossed), I can plunk down the 700+ bux that I would need to get the ball rolling on that (and a computer). This is also spurred on by the chances of a large amount of conversion work I'd need to do (I have a ton of ideas for Defilers).

Deathguard Marines
Deathguard Terminators
Dreadnought 1
Dreadnought 2

What I like about these models is the fact that they don't look retarded. Too many people have the idea that large tumors=nurgle. So all of there models have these giant, fleshy growths on them all over the place and then nothing done to the rest of the model to make it look like its rotting and diseased and not just a marine with a goiter problem. Plus, I painted a bunch of rotting zombies for my Cryx army and, as it turned out, I enjoyed it. I also enjoyed the Brutethrall that Angie refused to touch because of how gross it looked.

Another reason for wanting to do Nurgle marines is this project log:
Iron Warriors

Wow. This guy is amazing. The bi-pedal defilers made me want to pee my pants they were so awesome. Plus, the color scheme was simple, consistent and totally freaking sweet. Again, I wanted to wet myself.

It made me realize that I haven't really been pushing the limits of my skill when I paint. My Dark Angels are good, but not particularly inspired or unique. My Cryx guys are the best painting I've done, but there are no conversions and some sloppiness with the varnishing) I'm just not trying as many new things as I was when I started this hobby back up. Time to move forward.

Well, I need to get an army up to play Ian and I also need 700 dollars. We'll see how the Deathguard pans out.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Building a Necromunda Terrain Board: Part 4

In this installment we'll get the bulk of the painting finished up. After that, it's on to details and finishing touches (probably in further blog posts). These steps move much faster than the construction. Which is good, because construction was a bit of a ball-buster.

Some notes on Paint:

Paint is important. Maybe the most important part of the board.

The colors you choose are going to be tied into (and, perhaps, affecting) the pallets of your models and terrain. The colors are going to take your game board from a bunch of multicolored card squares on a piece of wood, to a bad-ass concrete wasteland.

The type of paint you choose is going to affect things like overall cost, time spent waiting for drying and overall durability of the finished product.

Paint Type:

Before we can choose colors, we need to discuss types of paint. If you've ever painted a miniature before, you're well aware that those little acrylic model paints are the way to go. They're fast drying, come in lots of colors/effects and are relatively cheap. You're probably most familiar with them as well.

However, we're talking about painting 16 square feet of gaming table. A little ounce-and-a-half paint pot isn't going to cut it. Hell, 10 of the little guys won't be enough. All of the qualities that make your regular mini paint great for miniatures are terrible for a gaming board. Primarily, the small size of the jars coupled with the 'fragile'* nature of the paint make it terrible for a high traffic play area.

*By fragile, I mean that since you are ideally working with very thin coat of paint, the paint will rub off if you don't dull coat you models. Since we're building a large surface that is meant to be played on, it will see much more 'handling' and general wear and tear than any model could ever reasonably expect to see.

For our purposes, we need a paint that us both cheaper than model paint, drys quickly and is durable. We need latex paint. It fits all those qualifications and comes in a dizzying array of colors.

Color Selection:

You have a few options here. They all involve going to a hardware store.

Option A: go to the premixed paint aisle and select colors from whats comes ready to go in can. This is very cheap, but you have very limited color selection. The only thing worth getting here is a solid flat black.

Option B: Go to the paint sample area and select some colors from the various chits. The hardware store will mix thees up to order and you have a ton of options. Often times, you can come pretty close to matching a favorite model paint color.

Option C: Often times, the hardware store will have a color matching service. If you have some colors of model paint you absolutely love or need to use, bring in a dry sample of the color and the hardware store can match it.

I went for option B. I needed some rich brown or green grays and non of my model paints fit the bill. It's also much easier to get colors from a pre-existing pallet. I choose 3 warmish grays from the Behr line that I am quite happy with (this is important since custom paint is non-returnable). 10 bucks a quart was bit more than I wanted to spend, but hey, thats how it is. Fun factoid: An equivalent amount of Citadel paint would have about 700+ dollars. Yikes.

I got my three grays based on a base coat and two highlights plan. I'd base coat over the black primer with the darkest gray, do a heavy highlight with the middle color and then a lighter highlight with the lightest color. there would also be a black wash in thrown in as well to add depth.

Another note: latex paint comes in a variety of finishes as well (matte, flat, gloss, etc). Get whatever suites your needs. I got a flat finish to help with the concrete effect I wanted.

I got way more paint than I needed, but considering I plan on using it for basing my models and for painting all the terrain I intend to make, its a pretty good deal.

Working With Latex Paint:

Is pretty easy. It washes up with water and drys fairly fast (you only need to wait about 2-ish hours between coats). Just make sure you give the can a good shake or stir before using it (just like any paint). I big brush and a drop cloth are also handy. We have 16 square feet of surface to cover. A two inch brush will be quite handy, if not a bit more messy.

Well, that was way more time spent on paint than I wanted. And with no pictures. More to come.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Building a Necromunda Terrain Board: Part 3

In this installment, we finish all of the construction and move on to painting. We also see how many times I switch back and forth between "I built this" and "we are building this (together).

Final Details - "Sanding"

The last bit of actual construction that needs to be done is the sanding. Not the sanding we did before, but different sanding involving actual sand and some glue rather than sand glued to paper.

Sanding is what I call the act of gluing sand to areas of the board. I glued sand to the crater surfaces and in a few choice spots around the rest of the board to break up the monotony of the tiling.

All you will need for this step is sand, wood glue, some old brushes and a place you can be messy.

First thing's first, put down a drop cloth unless you're doing this step outside. Sand gets everywhere.

In a small open container you don;t mind potentially ruining, mix some wood glue with some water. I have no idea what my mix percentages were, but I usually started at half and half and then added more glue to get to a consistency I liked. A key thing here, is make sure your container doesn't have a hole in it. I used an old spray can lid. It had a hole. Good thing I had a drop cloth.

The general idea with this is to brush on some glue in a spot you like, cover it with a small mound of sand and then repeat the process until you feel like you have enough sandy areas. It's a good idea to tamp it down a little to get the glue to stick.

Some notes before we move on: Let the sand sit for a bit before you start removing the excess to endure that some sort of bond has been achieved. Additionally, don't add too many large sand deposits in the middle of nowhere. I mainly focused on the craters, covering up mistakes on the edges of tiles, and around some of the vents and such. If and when you add sand to the middle of the tile, try to keep the layer thin and in an organic kinda shape.

Once you've finished gluing the sand down, dump the excess of the board and blow on each little deposit to get the rest of the excess. It's a good idea to test the glue's hold on the sand once everything is dry. If too much of the sand is too easy to flake off, its a good idea to mix up another batch of the water/glue mix and put a layer of it on top of the sand deposits.

In the above picture you can kinda see the areas I focused on for the sand. As an alternative or addition to some of the sand, you could mix some sand in with the latex paint and then paint on rough patches. A little more prep work, but a pretty cool effect. The sand patches ended up looking pretty good, but were not exactly what I had intended.

Finally, be sure to try and recycle as much sand as possible if that's a factor. I just lifted and moved the tarp around until all the sand was bunched up on one end and then funneled it back into the container.


All of the construction is now done, so its time to move onto painting. Before we get to the latex paint, its a good idea to prime the surface we want to paint. I used a simple can of flat black interior/exterior spray paint. Priming the surface in a dark color does a number of things.
  • Creates a flat and more uniform color for the latex paint to go over.
  • Creates a better surface for paint to adhere to.
  • Helps seal the card stock against moisture (from the latex paint)
I don't know how many of those points are real or imagined, but if nothing else, creating a flat, uniform color to cover up my brightly colored card and the wood was enough for me.

You only really need to get one coat of paint on the board for this step to be over. You're just looking for a general blackness to cover up all the original colors and provide a good solid base coat for the latex paint to go on. That being said, don't worry too much about the quality of this step. the latex paint will cover up all the mistakes you might make.

Some notes: When setting up for this, go outside and put down a tarp (if need be). Spray paint has an extreme potential for messy and also smells bad. Ventalation is good. Its also a good idea to elevate the boards so they don't get stuck to anything. I used some old soda boxes.

Once you get the base coat done and let it dry, we're ready for the real painting work.

Continues in the next installment

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Building a Necromunda Terrain Board: Part 2

All right, we have a bunch of supplies that we've gone to 3+ store to get and spent more money than we hoped on paint. Now what?

Note: I ended up with a 2x2 section that was about an eighth of an inch too long. I ignored that. Its not a big deal and would be almost impossible to get rid of it.

Well my dear boy (or girl), we get started.

Basic Preparation

First things first, we need to prep the MDF boards. First, pull of the bar code stickers if you have any. The edges of the MDF were a bit rough looking for my tastes, so I decided to sand them for easier painting later as well as an overall better aesthetic. I had purchased a pack of sand paper with multiple grits (hope I included this in the supply list). Start with the rougher sand paper and work you're way down to the finer stuff. Just sand enough to spruce up the edges. Try not to round off the corners.

Creating the Concrete Tile Effect

Having looked through the Warhammer 40,000 city fight book as well as a few general searches for game boards and Necromunda terrain, I decided I wanted a kind of interlocking concrete slab effect. This was actually pretty easy to do, though the single most time consuming portion of the project.
The basic idea is/was to create a series of geometric shapes using only right angles and then glue them down with a 1/16 inch gap between. Its actually desirable to have more than just rectangles as well as varying the distance between them in order to create a more visually interesting board. I started marking out some shapes on the card stock and cut them out whenever I needed the next one.
It's important to not get all crazy and up an entire sheet of the card at once. The idea is to break up overly long straight lines, so I took a more organic approach and only cut out a few shapes at a time. Its also a good idea to start at a corner to ensure that you glue the shapes down parallel to the edges of the board.
As you may or may not be able to see from the picture, the wood glue got everywhere. It took a long time to dry and, as I later found out, created some bubbling once I painted it. Do yourself a favor here and use super glue.

It helped me a ton to place the shape where I wanted it and then trace along the edges with a pencil to mark where it would go on the board. A good strong line of glue around the edges and a some glue in the center (kind of a wide hash mark pattern or curly cues are good) and then place the shape on the board. I found that having a paper towel handy to wipe away the excess was very helpful. It also had the added effect of sealing the edges of the card.

Note: I made sure all of the edge tiles were flush with the MDF. I felt that the gap around the edge of the board was ugly. But this is your call.

Another Note: you will go through a lot of superglue for this stage of construction. Do yourself a favor and buy the cheap stuff.

Creating Vents

You can just tile the entire board with the card stock or you can add metal plates, vents, craters or other such gewgaws along the way to create yet more visually interest on the board. I found it best to do these as I go rather than at the end. That way you don't forget to leave space for them and get a much better feel for where the next one should go.

Vents are a bit more complicated, so I'll start here first. Once you pick you spot, take some measurements and cut some lengths of the plastic strips you have to create a frame. I recommend a thinner plastic because you're going to have two layers of the stuff and you don't want it to ride too high over the rest of the tiles. Next, cut a section of the wire mesh to fit in the frame (with no overlap). You can try gluing it down now, but it's hard and unnecessary. Next, measure and cut strips to create a second frame that is slightly smaller than the first. Glue these pieces on top of the first. This is the easy way to make sure the mesh gets locked down. Next cut some lengths of plastic rod to create rivits and glue 'em down.

Don't worry too much about making the rivets uniform hight or cutting the frams at 45 degree angles. There's going to be a lot of paint on this (which will forgive many mistakes) and, its Necromunda. The underhive is not a clean and pristine place. Alternatively, you could make more of a grate by using lengths of rod rather than the mesh.

Creating Plates

These are much easier to make. Its as simple as cutting a rectangle of plastic and gluing it down like the card stock. Add rivits and you're done. I also recommend distressing the surface of the plate in some way to make it look more weathered. I used a wood carfing tool to cut gouges in mine.

Creating Craters

Craters are also easy, but are spread out over a few steps of the entire board making process. For now, draw an explody hole on one of the tiles (preferably one that's not glued down) and cut it out. Glue this tile down.
Now, using some sort of gouging tool (I had a few cheap-o wood carvers from many moons ago that I used), start digging out the crater. Remember to create a bowl-ish depression and to not dig too deep. I also added some plastic rodes as bent up rebar, peices of heavyier plastic as exploded chunks as well as some bits of plastic/card stock around the crater as more debris.
Other Stuff

You can also add other random features to your board. I had a manwhole, a set of bay doors and some kind of sewer access. Anything that looks interesting and industrial. Just remember to keep it fairly short and smallish. You're eventually going to have terrain on the board as well as miniatures. Don't create board features that draw too much attention to themselves or will act as obstructions to game play and/or terrain setup.

Finished With Tiling

There we've done one. Now do 3 more. I found that watching TV while doing this helped out a lot. It slowed me down a bit, but drew my attention away from the fact that it took 2-3 hours per section to get the tile laid down.

Additionally, make sure you trim any excess from the tiles on the edges. Anything hanging off the edge is bad.

Continues in part 3.

Building a Necromunda (or Cityfight) Terrain Board: Part 1

Hello and welcome to season 2 of Laubersheimer Industries. For Part two of a rare double post, I present my step by step instructions for building a modular gaming board for use with Necromunda or Cityfight.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind:
  • You will need money. While this wasn't overly expensive to make, it wasn't cheap. By the time it was all said and done, I spent about 90 bux. Some of that was on tools and things I thought I needed (but didn't). If you have anything on the list, it may be cheaper.
  • You will need time and a space you can be messy in. Construction took me about a week (+/- a day) and required drop cloths.
The General Idea

Necromunda, much like Warmachine is generally played on a 4' x 4' table. This is about a two thirds (square footage wise) of the standard 6' x 4' Warhammer table. While Necromunda is played on a considerably smaller surface, it is still much larger than you think. Making, maintaining and storing a 4x4 or bigger gaming surface would be a nightmare.

To this end, many people create what are called modular gaming tables. Generally speaking, the total surface area will be composed of not one giant slab, but rather several smaller sections. This provides a number of benefits:
  • Smaller pieces means smaller storage area.
  • Smaller pieces are less prone to warping
  • Smaller pieces can actually be packed up and brought to a friend's house.
  • Smaller pieces allow for certain terrain features to be built into the surface, thus creating module.
  • Smaller pieces are easier to make and replace if need be
Unfortunately, there are downsides, fist, being that there are clearly visible dividing lines between sections, while its not ugly, it draws attention to the face that you are playing a game as well as providing for a grid of know distances. If you have the room, by all means, build a full fledged gaming table. But, if you're like most people, you don't have the luxury of constructing a 6x4 table in the basement.

MDF or Insulating Foam?

A key question that you will need to answer straight away. They both advantages and disadvantages.

MDF (medium density Fiberboard): Not to be confused with plywood. It has a smooth surface and is pretty tough. A gaming board made out of this will be much more resistant to damage and can take much more abuse during construction (i.e: it can be sprayed directly with all spraypaint). However, it is heavy and more expensive than foam. I only got the half inch thick stuff and I still felt like I needed to but a protective pad on the underside to protect furniture. If you get this stuff, make sure you get the guys at the Hardware store to cut it for you.

Insulation Foam: Usually in pink or blue. It is cheap, light (though this can cause problems with shifting during game play) and easy to work with. It is also readily available - MDF can be hard to find. However, it is not very damage resistant and even a heavy pair of dice will dent it if rolled to hard. Also, since it is foam, you cannot use super glue or spraypaint directly on the foam. Another note: cutting foam is a bitch. It dulls knifes like crazy. You could get a foam cutter, but those cost money and aren't the easiest things in the world to cut a straight line with. On a plus, you have a lot more foam for less money to make more sections than you need, thus giving you more options. Overall foam is a very good option and the one most people take

I ended up choosing MDF. I wanted the durability and the weight (so it wouldn't shift around during a game). Money wasn't a real problem and most of what I wanted to do couldn't easily be done on foam. I only got 1/2 (foam users often use 2 inch) inch as a comprimise for weight and cost.


Right off the bat, you will need to collect the materials you will need to construct this. First, this saves you a million trips to the store and, thusly, doesn't interrupt your work flow. Here's another delightful bulleted list.
  • Enough MDF to make 4 2x2 sections. My local Home Depot sold 2x4 sheets. I had them cut each one in half.
  • Sand paper to clean up the edges of the MDF.
  • Heavy card stock to make the conctrete slabs that this table has. I ended up in a stationary section buying 1x1 sheets of pretty good card stock. Note from the past: get lightrer colors so you can see you pencil marks. I payed about 1 buck for each sheet to get the thickness I wanted. If you can find cheaper card stock, by all means go for it. 17 bucks on cardstock was about 7 more bucks than I wanted to spend.
  • Plastic strips,sheets and rods. These can be found at most good hobby stores. Sheet and strip styrene, as they're called, were used to make all kinds of vents and plates to liven up the. table. The rods were cut in small, very small sections to make rivets.
  • Wireform mesh to make vents. Found at art stores. This could be replaced with any thin grate or vent looking stuff you can find. However, it double as chainlink fence for other projects.
  • Super glue lue,and lots of it. I think I went through something like 15-18 of those little tubes. I initially thought that wood glue wood be the thing to affix numerous squares of the card stock to the MDF, I was wrong. It took forever to dry, was overly messy and caused some bubbling in the card stock. I glued down a mere two squares before I went over to super glue. Much faster and much stronger. though not less messy.
  • Black Spraypaint. I used this as a base coat once everything was assembled, but before I did anything with the latex paint. Its just like painting anything else. Prime the surface, then paint. I got two cans and only needed one.
  • 3 quarts of latex paint. Each quart was a different color. There was a base, and then two highlights. You can do more or less, but you will need, at minimum, two colors to create any ind of depth or visually interest. This was actually very fun to pick out. Just go to the hardware store and check out color samples (the ready made paint is largely useless for this purpose). Make sure you get a flat finish. More on paint later.
  • 1 small can of flat black latex paint. This is for edging and washes.
  • Various paintbrushes. I got a 2 inch, 1 inch and half inch.
  • Clear coat. This is the important coat of paint that you can't see but protects all your hard work. Plan on doing two coats per section and get 2+ cans.
  • Carpet Grippy tape. Sticky on one side only. I used this to further limit the ability of the gaming board to slide around and protect tables.
  • Wood glue, for gluing down sand.
  • Sand. To look like small ruble, general dirt and for craters.

You will also need an Exacto knife, a good metal ruler - preferably one with a cork backing, a cutting board, paper towels, a pencil with a good point, drop cloths, some kind of gouging tool and a t-square couldn't hurt either. Hopefully I didn't forget anything.

Continues in part 2.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Goreshade the Illegitimate Child

Progress Report:

Bane Knight Holes drilled: 25/70

The Bane Knights need a lot of pinning - each one is eight pieces. That's a lot of pieces that can break off during game-play... or even while just painting them. In order to reinforce them, I need to pin on each arm (2 holes per arm) and each shied (another 2 holes). because I like to use custom bases (of my own construction), I need to file off the slot-tab and then insert a length of rod to pin the model to the base. That's a lot of holes. I'd have to say that the Bane Knights are the unit that requires the most preparation work that I've done so far. They're not particularly complicated, they just have way to many pieces.

The Deathjack, on the other hand, was both complicated and part-y. Somewhere around 31 bits once everything was cut off of the sprues. It also needed a fair bit of greenstuff - mostly to fill in a gap in its torso for pinning purposes.

The Deathjack is almost ready to go. Just a few more parts to paint up (the hands) and then attach and I've got 154 points of unstoppable killing machine done. He's already based since I had to do so in order to get his legs assembled.

An Army List

Since the Deneghra list is done, I've begun work on the next list based project:

Army: goreshade project
Faction: Cryx
Army Points: 498/500
Victory Points: 16

Goreshade the Bastard
Bane Lord Tartarus
Pistol Wraith
Pistol Wraith
Bane Knights (9)
Bile Thralls (7)

A fairly standard (from what I understand - remember, I'm still a bit of a noob) Goreshade soul-gate assassination list. As usual, I pulled this from a thread on the PP boards.

The general idea is to go crazy with the Deathjack until you can get some troops up to the enemy warcaster and then soulgate a focus laden monster right on top of the poor SOB. In the meantime, you remove troops with the Bile Thralls and limit the enemy warcaser's spells with mageblight. The Bane Knights are god for this since they ae ghostly (can move through terrain/models and ignore free-strikes). I hear this is especially cool against Khador.

Another reason I like this list, is the fact that it shares a lot of models with the Deneghra list as well as my proposed Skarre list (more on that later). Aside from a few bits and pieces of the Deathjack and Goreshade's base, all I have left to paint is the Bane Knights. They're next on deck.

Important note: Goreshade's feat allows him to summon Bane Thralls (not knights). These aren't included in the list. So, when I say the list is close to being painted, it doesn't include the feat unit. There is a more than likely chance that I wont get them done by the 26th. I don't feel too bad about that - they don't start on the table and they aren't a part of the list's point cost.

Monday, February 25, 2008

Once elected, I promise to...

I know what you're thinking. You're thinking "wow, two posts in a row on consecutive days!" You might also be thinking: "Huh huh, Lauby thinks people read his blog"

To the first group of people who may or may not be fictitious: Yep, two posts. I gotst stuff to talk about and I aim to talk about it. I'm going to make a more determined effort to update this. Maybe there will be pictures too.

To the second group: Screw you! I don't need your nay-saying. Boooo!

Some New Ideas

The thrust of this blog is probably going to change. I feel like I should include more info on the gaming side of the miniature wargaming hobby. Painting is cool and all, but this blog needs more than pictures of models in various stages of completion.

Expect to see a lot more army lists, maybe some battle reports and some tactical musings. Especially, once I have a good sized collection to game with and then find a gaming group.

Whilst in Chicago in late March early April, I hope to play many games of 40k and Warmachine. I hope to have at least one battle report with pictures from a Warmachine game. Maybe even a "let's play Warmachine" thing - a kind of super detailed battle report, general game overview and fluff primer. Pipe dream? Maybe. But if Bioshock has taught me anything, its that pipes are pretty useful for re-programming vending machines.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Still no pictures! WTF, Lauby!!

Yeah, sorry about that. I've been so busy trying to get three-ish armies painted for my trip to Chicago, that I haven't had the drive to photograph things. Some day, I promise...

That being out of the way, I think I'm becoming a bit obsessed. I've been pushing myself much harder than ever to get three armies painted (or, most of three). I've been putting in long hours on the painting desk. Sometimes I go to sleep thinking about my loose time-line and wondering if I'll make it.


It doesn't help that I've been listening to Felcalls while painting. So, there I am listening to an IK themed podcast while painting my IK models and trying to cram a lot of painting into a shrinking time frame. I may have to switch to MST3K episodes... if I can get my laptop back from Angie. Hmmmm.

Hopefully, I'll get better once I get the Dethjack done - he's been taking a bit longer than I would like.

Moving along, lets do a Helpful Handy Hint:

Sometimes it can be a bit of a chore to paint you army mans. It shouldn't be. It's a hobby. You know, for fun? While it's generally a good idea to try and budget time and press for fully painted (at least in my thinking), its no good if you end up staring at half a unit and going "ugh, fuck this fucking wintergaurd".

There are ways to alleviate/prevent what can eventually become "burnout":
  • Listen to something while you paint. Just something to split your attention a bit (like music while you're writing a paper) will keep you from being focused on one thing for too long. Siting at a desk whilst quietly painting and deeply concentrating can be a drag after a while.
  • Split up long lines of things. Sometimes, painting 13 winterguard in a row can be lame. Painting 13 of anything in a row can be lame. Break it up. Paint them in smaller batches or paint a few and then work on another model or project. I like to paint a solo or light jack in between units or even unit halves- especially units that I foolishly gave a complicated color scheme to. Maybe even do prep on a different model/unit.
  • Don't buy a whole ton of models that will sit, unpainted, and constantly remind you how much 'work' you have ahead of you before you're fully painted. Buy in moderation and only buy more when you absolutely have to. This is a big one for me. 2,000 points of metal lumps staring at me is very daunting and overwhelming.
Looks like this is gonna be a long one:

The Podthralls: These guys are a good time. Its free and good entertainment updated weekly. Its just a bunch of freinds who play Privateer Press games and discuss them on a weekly podcast. They usually discuss a couple different models a week and go over strengths, weaknesses, tactics, synergies and such. Plus, there's a fair bit of humor with a weekly top five and some general nerd humor. They may not always know what they're talking about (heavy cav.), but they've been around the block a few times and have a lot of experience to share. Give it a try.

Finally, my progress update.

The previously mentioned Deneghra list is done. So I've got at least one fully painted list rady to rock. I also finished Tartarus and Goreshade (pending his base). The big project right now is the Deathjack. A fairly complicated model assembly wise. It's taken me a bit longer than I'd like to finish it, but it looks like I can finish him up in about 3 more days (I hope).

Then I'm on to a 10 man Bane thrall unit. First off, the models are great. Really neat looking. Unfortunately they are ALSO really complicated - 8 pieces each. 8. Eight. Ocho. Wow.

Prep work has started, but I have 50 more holes to drill (I've done 20) before they're pinned. Luckily, the scheme I've planned should be pretty quick to get done.

That's all for know. Next time we'll get some army lists and... uh.. whatzit.

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

2 months.... ew.

Though I have not updated the blog, I have been busy. The previously posted Denaghra army is almost done, after the bile thralls I am currently working on are done, the list is fully painted. Then i can move onto my Goreshade list.

I'm planning a gaming trip to Chicago for late March. I should, hopefully - and the prospects look good, have a couple of lists ready to go. I might even be able to sneak in some Skarre action, but this seems unlikely given my slow painting speed and the time constraints.

Lets see, I'm a bit behind on my overall painting plan. I got sick over Christmas break and didn;t touch paint to miniature for9ish days. I got a Deathjack, which is good. It's next in the queue of stuff to paint (though I might switch it for Goreshade).

One of these days I'll have to post some pics. But not today.

Some general painting related notes for the sake of content:

No Quarter is an awesome magazine. lately, a series of great painting articles have been introduced. If you haven't checked them out, you should. I've gotten lots of ideas and recipes from them and much of my current work is based on these articles. Its great stuff.

Just be wary that most of the articles require you to at least be semi-able to do blending. Blending is great, but a bit tricky to master, you can cheat by adding in matte or glaze medium but not too much)to increase flow and drying time.

Also be aware that the flesh tones often involve the P3 flesh colors (Rynn, Midlund, Kardic, Flesh Wash). These colors are all a bit pink. Too pink, really. I tried them out straight and was a bit underwhelmed by the noticeably pink kind of skin it gets. In fairness, I didn't have the P3 flesh wash (which is much, much less brown than my old GW standby). I may have to give it another go.