Instead, I'm treating the models I mentioned previously as a sort of master recipe for all the rest. Doubly important since I didn't write a bunch of stuff down and so there was far more queswork required than I would have liked (the acceptable amount is 0%).
Step 1: Primer + Base Coat
Progress on these guys was halted last summer right after I had base coated them. For posterity, I used a black primer, an airbrushed coat of the now OOP Mechrite Red and then a couple of airbrushed coats of the now OOP Red Gore.
In light of the paint changeover I'm switching to a red primer to phase out the Mechrite Red step since I can't easily replace that color. Though I am sticking with the Red Gore and I have a lead on two current manufacturers of an alternative match. There's also an added bonus of cutting out a step. Something I am ALL ABOUT this time through my little red mans.
Step 2: Basic Base Coat Highlights
Most of the model is gonna be done with hard line highlights, but they can leave a model looking pretty flat, so I'm adding a couple layering effects here and there for added visual interest.
a roughly 50/50 mixture of Red Gore and Blood Red is layered on to various areas. I usuually go with: toes, knees, back of the ankles, upper thighs, upper chest, neck, elbows and hands.
Step 3: Shading
The highlights from step 2 work to make the shading a bit more interesting as well. A roughly 50/50 mix of Black and Burnt Cadmium Red is lined on.
Step 4: Joints
All the joints and other appropriate ribbed areas get a base coat of black. The ribs are painted with Boltgun Metal and then given a single wash of Badab Black to take the shine down.
|Note, the back vents were done before the shading. Same recipe as the regular metal below.|
I try and get the messy steps out of the way before I actually get to highlighting the red. All the metal areas are given a base of Boltgun Metal (after an optional black base). A single coat of Devlan Mud is applied and allowed to dry followed by a single coat of Badab Black. The metal areas are then highlighted with Chainmail.
Step 6: Black areas
While there are a number of black parts on the model, I leave a lot of them off the model for ease of work. The stuff I can't leave off gets done first. I base with VMA black so the areas will match the stuff I airbrush and then start highlighting with the Reaper Dusky Skin Triad. In the past I had a custom mixed gray recipe that I used, but was very time consuming to make over and over again. The reaper paints aren't an exact match, but I don't have to mix anything. It also gets me used to the inevitability of my reds not being perfectly matched in the future.
|Note, the dusky skin shadow is cut with black for a highlight like the one in step 2.|
This is the biggest time sink so far. Every area of the model gets a line highlight with custom mix #1 (red gore and vomit brown). Then custom mix #2 (lots of added white) goes on sparingly as an extreme highlight.
|Terminator bodies done later.|