The Flesh Tearers - Recipe Notes (Part 3)

Part three takes us into completion of the terminators.  With the way I've been painting these guys it also looks like a self contained versions of part 1 and 2.

Step 13:  Prep work for the black parts.

All the remaining little bits at this point are assembled, trimmed and generally made ready to receive paint.

In the case of the power armor dorks, it'll be shoulder pads, heads and backpacks and the odd special/heavy weapon.

That plastic lump is some Instant Mold

Step 14:  Green stuff logos
Since it turned out that the GW metal pads are a noticeable smaller size than the standard plastic ones AND because these guys are supposed to be the elite Wolf Guard, I decided to add some press molded symbols.

It's usually slow, difficult and frustrating going and I can't yet tell if Instant Mold sucks or I do.

Step 15: Black Primer + Base
Everything gets some black primer and then a coat of VMA black.  I then do a roughly 50/50 mix of RMS black and the Dusky Skin Shadow as a soft highlight on the 'top' of all the parts.  Because the Reaper paints don't get along with my Tamiya thinner, I have to use what is called magic water.

Step 16:  Highlight the Black
Using the same recipe as I did for Step 6 back in part 1.

Note to self: For the shoulder pads, it may be worth my time to attach them to the model and then highlight them as thier weird shape makes it hard to paint them separately

Step 17:  Remaining Details.
This step is just a bunch of stuff lumped together.  There's a lot of overlap with things in part 1 and 2, so I'm just going to touch the new stuff.

The eyes get a base of a green roughly like the old Snot Green.  I went with something I had laying around since the early 90's.Followed by Scorpy Green, Yellow Green and then Yellow Green/white (tiny highlight).

Once the chapter symbol was painted with the white recipe, I painted the gems.  A base of black followed by layers of Burnt Cadmium Red, Khador Red, Scarlet and then a teeny dot of white.

Step 18:  DONE!
Well... not quite.  The model is fully assembled first.  And then sealed with Vallejo Satin Varnish thinned with water and applied with an airbrush.  About two coats. Letting the first dry before applying the second.

Then I use some brush on matte varnish on the cloth to make it actually look like cloth and some brush on gloss varnish on the eyes and any gems to give them some zazz.

Aaaaaaand done.  Except for the base.  Still working on that problem.  Probably some kind of yellowish static grass.  But certainly not snow.

The missiles were painted with Ordic Olive